Dag 9

Kungens palats

Vi vandrar runt i gamla Lo Manthang med palats och kloster med anor från 1380-talet. Här kontrollerade man handeln mellan Kina och Indien. Överallt kikar munkar fram eller sitter och mediterar, kvinnor sitter och behandlar ull och många frågar oss glatt var vi kommer från. En vanlig dag i det förbjudna kungariket Lo Manthang.

Svägerskorna i Lo Manthang

De två svägerskorna har sina traditionella klänningar i brunt ylletyg under de randiga förklädena pangden och ryggsjalen kerten. Det är snyggt, varmt och praktiskt. Vi låter dom prova våra jaksjalar och tar några bilder. Det blir fantastiskt fint. Dolma Tsering är konstnär och har i 10 år deltagit i restaureringen av muralmålningarna i klostret Thubchen Gompa. Klostret och kungens palats är från sent 1300-tal. Målningarna är magnifika och täcker de stora väggarna överallt. Färgmaterialet är lera blandat med olika mineraler och läggs i detaljerade lager. Dolma har gått en lång utbildning och har gått i lära hos en italiensk konservator som leder arbetet sedan länge. Även svägerskan heter Dolma och arbetar på restaurangen i Lo Manthang som serverar den bästa Dal Bhat i byn.

From seeing pashmina goats in Ghami and the yak herds of the Chheten family in the mountains, we have seen how the animals live. To learn how their wools are prepared, we visit a cooperative that processes the raw material and sells it onto its next stage.

Here is a short description of the exquisite wools of Mustang, Nepal.

Chyangra goat wool – “soft gold”

The pashmina goat, chyangra (which means mountain goat in the local language), lives in Mustang at 4,000–5,000 metres.

There are 52,000 mountain goats in Mustang. The chyangra is a special species of cashmere goat that has evolved over millennia in the extreme weather typical of high Himalayan altitudes. They have lungs that can manage thin air and a lightweight undercoat of insulating wool. The inner layer fibres are extra fine and luxurious, similar to down.

This is pashmina or ”soft gold”, the finest of all cashmere. Chyangra goats are led in small groups by shepherds and nomads. Fibres and wool are collected in the spring when the goats shed. Each goat produces approximately 100 grams of pashmina wool. The wool from 10-20 goats is necessary to produce one sweater or shawl.

All preparation is done by hand as it is the softest and most exclusive wool in the world.

Yak wool

Yaks live at high altitudes in the Himalayas. They have survived at 4000-6000 metres for millenia. Their fine layers of wool protect from extreme cold. Yak wool is considered warmer than merino wool.

Yak wool comes in three different types:

- Long outer wool – used by the nomads to make tents/yurts; this is “ZIBA” that is sheared

- Medium thickness wool – used for ropes and tents; strong but not as strong as outer wool

- Yak down – shed naturally in the spring; aka “KULLU”, this softer wool is used for garments

Wool’s journey – from mountain to garment

A cooperative led by the ”Apple Man Chairman” collects Mustang’s pashmina and yak wool for onward distribution. The chairman says that they are now selling the bulk to Kathmandu, whereas it used to be sold to China. The wool is sold untreated. 

The dream would be to have their own cleaning/treatment equipment. 
The wool is mostly black and brown.
Only a 1000-kilogram supply of yak wool comes from Mustang as the market is tough.
One goat produces 100 grams of pashmina wool. Wool from 10-20 goats is therefore needed for to make a sweater or shawl. All preparation is done by hand.

Authentic pashmina wool is a very exclusive fibre to cherish and love for a very long time.