Day 9
The King's Palace
We wander around old Lo Manthang with palaces and monasteries dating back to the 1380s. Trade between China and India was once controlled here. Everywhere monks gaze out or sit and meditate, women sit and process wool, and many inhabitants happily ask us where we are from. This is an ordinary day in the Forbidden Kingdom of Lo Manthang.
The sisters-in-law of Lo Manthang
The two sisters-in-law wear their traditional brown woolen dresses under striped kurtas and pagnes. Every element is stylish, warm, and practical. We let them try on our yak wool shawls and then take some photos. They are sure to turn out fantastic. Dolma Tsering is an artist and has participated in the restoration of the Thubchen Gompa monastery murals for ten years. The monastery and the Royal Palace date back to the late 14th century. The paintings are magnificent and cover the large walls everywhere. The colours are achieved through clay mixed with different minerals, which is then meticulously layered. Dolma has undergone a long apprenticeship with an Italian conservator who has been leading restoration efforts over a number of years.
Her sister-in-law is also called Dolma. She works at the restaurant in Lo Manthang which serves the best Dal Bhat in the village.
Pashmina and yak wool – soft gold
From seeing pashmina goats in Ghami and the yak herds of the Chheten family in the mountains, we have seen how the animals live. To learn how their wools are prepared, we visit a cooperative that processes the raw material and sells it onto its next stage. Here is a short description of the exquisite wools of Mustang, Nepal.
Chyangra goat wool – “soft gold”
The pashmina goat, chyangra (which means mountain goat in the local language), lives in Mustang at 4,000-5,000 metres. There are 52,000 mountain goats in Mustang. The chyangra is a special species of cashmere goat that has evolved over millennia in the extreme weather typical of high Himalayan altitudes. They have lungs that can manage thin air and a lightweight undercoat of insulating wool. The inner layer fibres are extra fine and luxurious, similar to down.
This is pashmina or ”soft gold”, the finest of all cashmere. Chyangra goats are led in small groups by shepherds and nomads. Fibres and wool are collected in the spring when the goats shed. Each goat produces approximately 100 grams of pashmina wool. The wool from 10-20 goats is necessary to produce one sweater or shawl. All preparation is done by hand as it is the softest and most exclusive wool in the world.
Yak wool
Yaks live at high altitudes in the Himalayas. They have survived at 4000-6000 metres for millenia. Their fine layers of wool protect from extreme cold. Yak wool is considered warmer than merino wool.
Yak wool comes in three different types:
- Long outer wool – used by the nomads to make tents/yurts; this is “ZIBA” that is sheared
- Medium thickness wool – used for ropes and tents; strong but not as strong as outer wool
- Yak down – shed naturally in the spring; aka “KULLU”, this softer wool is used for garments
Wool’s journey – from mountain to garment
A cooperative led by the ”Apple Man Chairman” collects Mustang’s pashmina and yak wool for onward distribution. The chairman says that they are now selling the bulk to Kathmandu, whereas it used to be sold to China. The wool is sold untreated.
The dream would be to have their own cleaning/treatment equipment. The wool is mostly black and brown. Only a 1000-kilogram supply of yak wool comes from Mustang as the market is tough. One goat produces 100 grams of pashmina wool. Wool from 10-20 goats is therefore needed for to make a sweater or shawl. All preparation is done by hand.
Authentic pashmina wool is a very exclusive fibre to cherish and love for a very long time.
